Beijing - The Forbidden City

 The Palace Museum or the Forbidden City was used as the royal palace in the Ming and Qing dynasties. It was home to 24 emperors for as long as 500 years from 1406 when Emperor Chengzu of Ming started its construction, to 1911 when Puyi, the last emperor of the Qing Dynasty, abdicated.  The last emperor ascended the throne at the age of three in 1908, but a new Republican Government brought his brief reign to an early end in 1912. The young ex-emperor continued to live in the Forbidden City until he was ejected in 1924. The Communists later imprisoned him until Mao granted him immunity in 1959. He died in 1967 after working for seven years as a gardener. In 1949, the public was finally admitted through the palace gates.

 The construction lasted 15 years. Its large scale and imposing effect is rarely seen in China’s architectural history. Miraculously, the palace survived fire, water, and imperial China’s final collapse.

The Forbidden City, forming a rectangle in shape, covers a total area of 720,000 square meters. On its four sides stand 10-meter high walls with a corner tower at each of its four corners. Outside the wall runs a 52-meter-wide moat, composing a strong defense network. Inside the Forbidden City we find magnificent palaces, broad squares, fine pavilions and beautiful gardens.

The Forbidden City embodies architectural principles devised through three millennia in the Shang Dynasty. Each main hall faces south, and looks upon a courtyard flanked by lesser buildings. This symmetry of Taoyuan, a series of courtyards, leading to the main and final courtyard, repeats itself along a north-south axis that bisects the imperial palace. 

According to traditional theory of yin-yang and Five Elements, the Outer Court, representing yang , is the place where the Ming and Qing emperors wielded power, held ceremonies and summoned ministers. The layout of the Outer Court is centered on Three Grand Halls, namely Hall of Supreme Harmony, Hall of Middle Harmony, and Hall of Preserving Harmony. The three Grand Halls, imposing and magnificent, fully indicate the dignity of the imperial power.

 In front of the Gate of Supreme Harmony one finds a pair of bronze lions, which is the largest pair found in the Forbidden City. The one on the left stepping on a ball is the male, and the one on the right clutching an infant lion with its claw is a female. The Gate of Supreme Harmony is the highest-ranking gate in the Forbidden City   

The Inner Court, representing yin, was where the emperor and empress and imperial concubines lived. It centers on the Palace of Heavenly Purity, the Hall of Union and Peace, and the Palace of Earthly Tranquility. Six Eastern Palaces and six Western Palaces are located to house the imperial concubines. The layout of the whole complex is strictly in line with China’s royal architectural tradition. 

The emperor regarded himself as the son of Heaven, and the royal palace was called Purple Palace, symbolizing that all is submitted to the emperor and the rule over the country is steady and unchangeable. The palace had tight security and the access of ordinary people was completely forbidden, and so it was called The Forbidden City. Since the People’s Republic of China was founded, the Forbidden City became of the key units for preservation of cultural relics. In 1987 UNESCO included the Forbidden City on its World Heritage List. This ancient and magnificent architectural complex displays its historical and cultural beauty to all visitors home and abroad.

 

               

A visit thru the Imperial Gardens must be included in your tour of the Forbidden City if time allows. You will walk thru rocks, pebbles, and greenery. Of special note is the Hill of Gathered Excellence, stacked by lake stones in the form of a pyramid, on top of which sits the Pavilion of Imperial Scenery with a conical pyramid roof. It is here the emperor, empress and imperial concubines would sit to enjoy different Festivals.   

 

Seals of Antarctica

In Antarctica, seals are one of the most commonly seen and distinctive (because of their size) animals, sleeping on beaches or lazing on ice floes. But these mammals are not lazy, for we see them only when they are resting. Their feeding activity is mainly done under water, out of sight, and during the night.  Seals are air-breathing mammals with dense fur coats, who come ashore or on to ice to give birth to pups.

Of the six species of seals found in Antarctica, four of them –the Ross, the Crabeater, Leopard and Weddell - inhabit the ice and icy waters which surround this continent.

All are confined to Antarctica and seldom found on land. The other two species - the Antarctic fur seal and the Southern Elephant seal-usually can be found on the shoreline and rarely encountered on the ice

Crabeater seals are the most abundant in the world, with populations ranging between 10 and 50 million seals. They do not eat crabs, they eat krill. No other seal is so specialized in eating one type of food. Where most mammals have molars for chewing or cutting food, this breed has molars that are highly modified for filtering food from the water. When the mouth is closed the upper and lower teeth mesh to form a sieve to trap krill while water is expelled. They are probably the most common seals in the world, yet few people see them because they inhabit the pack-ice zone around Antarctica. They seldom come up on land. Leopard seals and killer whales prey on Crabeater seals, particularly the young in their first year.

 

Leopard seals have “leopard spots” on their elongated bodies, powerful fore flippers and a large head with a menacing gape. They are not gregarious and spend most of their time in the pack-ice zone.  They are well known for eating penguins, especially the newly fledged chicks, but krill makes up a far larger component of their diet. Their penguin-hunting behavior is most common late in summer when the chicks take their first foraging trip in the water. Leopard seals have attacked humans on several occasions. With an increasing number of recreational scuba divers visiting Antarctica, the number of aggressive encounters with these animals may increase.  

Southern Elephant Seals are the largest seals in the world, the males weighing in over four tons. One such seal can weigh more than two rhinoceroses. It is the most accomplished diver and has been recorded descending more than one mile.  They come ashore only to breed and to molt, and more than 80 per cent of their time is spent in the ocean.  They breed in the sub Antarctic islands and venture into Antarctica in summer.

Weddell seals are the most southerly occurring mammal in the world. It is the only species that inhabits the fast-ice zone fringing the Antarctic continent. In this zone, the sea freezes in solid sheets that fasten on to the land, forming an almost uniform roof over the water.   They have smart “cat-like faces”, upturned mouths and short whiskers.

The Antarctic Fur Seal have small external ear-flaps and use fore flippers to swim. It is the only seal that can sit upright on its front flippers, just like the performing sea lions in circuses. While all the other species move on land and ice like inchworms, Fur seals are capable of raising themselves off the ground. They are unique among the Antarctic seals in that they can rotate their hind flippers forward and support some of their body weight on these limbs. This makes them very agile and fast when moving on shore. They can run faster than most people, especially those people wearing a parka and rubber boots. I personally saw a photographer with tripod being pursued by one on land when he tried a photo shoot with what he thought was an usually big boulder. The population of this particular breed has recovered remarkably since near-extinction form commercial harvesting in the early 1800’s. As recently as 1933 it was estimated that there were only 60 living on Bird Island in South Georgia. Today, the population there exceeds 65,000.

The Ross seal is a species that resides in the areas of the Antarctic seas where the pack ice is the densest. They are the shortest of the Antarctic seals with very small heads and tiny teeth. Their eyes are very large, and are thought to be an adaptation for feeding on squid in the low light conditions found at great depth under the pack ice. Out of the water, they seem to be more vocal than other Antarctic seals. A variety of calls and trills have been reported which brands them in the group of “singing seals.”

A non-breeding seal does not have any need to leave the water, for a seal can comfortably rest at the surface and get all its food from the sea. Giving birth, known as pupping, requires a solid platform and Antarctic seals haul out onto ice or land for this process. All species can have one pup per year, and females mate again after giving birth.

 

On our trips to shore, our guides were insistent that we be very careful of approaching too close to the sleeping seals. They may look harmless, posed as large boulders, but they can be very aggressive if annoyed.

Icebergs of Antarctica

Few places on the planet invoke such visions simply at the mention of the Seventh Continent as Antarctica. Whether it is the endless miles of ice, the dark isolation, fluffy penguins, the mammoth icebergs or incredible sea life, only a lucky few of us will get to see it for ourselves.

A recent visit to this “end of the world place” in their peak summer months (January-February) allowed for an unusual picture-perfect opportunity to capture some of nature’s grandest displays. Accessible by boat service from Tierra del Fuego, it usually takes two full days through the often-turbulent Drake’s Passage.

This is at the meeting of the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans. With nature’s generosity and almost twenty hours of magnificent daylight, we were able to capture the ever-changing moods of the days, the animal life and the icebergs, while enjoying the tempo of this (perhaps) last, pristine eco-environment on earth. Fewer than 80,000 persons from times recorded have ever visited Antarctica, and recent calamities will continue to reduce tourism accessibility.

Preparation for a visit to this region includes a collection of thermal clothing, high water boots and a variety of apparel for ever-changing weather. Sun and sleet, sun and rain can happen within minutes. Temperature at the time of my visit hovered between 18 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Landings are only accessible by zodiac boats expertly manned by well-trained naturalist/geologist guides. They are the eyes and ears for potential problems of danger. Only 65 people are allowed on land at one time.

 

On ship or land, one is awe-struck by the icebergs, some the size of a large apartment house or a Gothic church. These icebergs appear to be mountains with their windswept buttes and large icicles. One is taken aback when viewing these mountains with the knowledge that only one seventh of the icebergs appear above the water line.

Icebergs often collide and scrape each other, causing the taller one to topple over. Tall vertical icebergs suddenly break apart and become horizontals, glistening in the water  in the bright sun. Often you will find icebergs that resemble sculptures - a  dog or a pig or even a person. When the sun begins to steal away into the sky, the colors from the inside the iceberg begin to glow.

All the ice on land in Antarctica is made up of fresh water. Precipitation that falls as snow seldom melts in cold conditions. It piles up on top of the flakes from the last snowfall. The weight of one snowfall atop another compresses the flakes, and over a period of several years, the snow turns to little granulated balls called “firn.” After a further few years of accumulation of snow, the firn becomes ice. This process occurs all over Antarctica and results in a build-ip of glaciers and icebergs.

The air is important in determining the color of the ice. Ice itself is actually blue, but it will seldom look that way unless you are looking at a large piece of glacial ice. We need a large chunk of ice to reflect back enough blue light for us to recognize it. Glacial ice is big enough to show the blue color scatter - the ice in our drink is not.

While icebergs are made of fresh water, the ocean also freezes, forming sea ice. Every winter the sea around Antarctica freezes, and every summer most of the new ice melts again. The frozen sea water (3 to 9 feet thick) provides an important habitat for plants and animals, above and below the surface. Seals and penguins use the sea ice (and icebergs) as a place to rest.

Witness the dramatic beauty of spectacular iceberg sculptures, marvel at the glaciers and experience up-close encounters with marine mammals. A zodiac cruise amongst colorful icebergs is a must. Here you are bound to see seals sun-bathing on slow-moving ice floes close at hand. Or else penguins languishing in the sun, staring at their predators.

Antarctic’s harsh conditions and geographic location translate to “desolate” in all languages except “penguin-speak.” This is what makes it so attractive to adventurers. No indigenous populations inhabit the continent, and the penguins far outnumber the human residents.

This is a once-in-a-lifetime adventure and people who want to live life to the fullest and enjoy the dwindling beauties and simplicity of nature should take advantage and GO! Follow in the footsteps of Roald Amundsen and Robert Falcon Scott as you enjoy your adventure.

Penguins of Antarctica

If there is one animal for which tourists come to Antarctica, it is for the Penguin. Penguin sightings are the highlight of any trip cruise.

The ancestors of the Penguin were flying birds, and they have evolved into specialized divers and swimmers. Penguins “fly” through the water using the same wing-beats and muscles other birds use for flying in the air. Their wings are so small they are usually called “flippers.,” These flippers provide the power while their winged feet, tucked in under the tail, are used for steering.

Their feathers are densely packed, and cover all their skin, just like the fur on a hamster’s back. This prevents water from reaching the skin, and enables the bird to stay warm in cold water. These dense feathers, plus a layer of blubber under the skin, do an excellent job of conserving a penguin’s body heat, even during a blizzard. The general coloration is black on the back and white on the underneath. This provides effective camouflage against predators when swimming through the water.

Antarctic penguins all nest in colonies, where their breeding is synchronized. Most eggs are laid at the same time, hatch at the same time, and the chicks develop at the same pace. Male and females both take an active role in raising the chicks. Both sexes incubate the eggs, feed the chicks and guard the nest. This shared labor is very important, as a penguin chick will not likely survive if it has lost one parent.

Worldwide, there are 17 species of penguins; 5 species found in Antarctica, live only in the southern hemisphere, and are the best divers of all birds.

If a person might imagine a typical penguin, the Adelie springs to mind. This breed is largely confined to Antarctica and the bird nests farther south than any other penguin. With its simple black and white pattern and total absence of bright color, it is a symbol of the far south. Adelie penguins often forage far from their colonies, and during incubation phase have been known to travel up to 62 miles to feed. Their height is about 18 inches, and their weight usually 11 lbs. Diet is krill, fish, squid.

The Chinstrap takes its name from the obvious line of black feathers that runs, like the strap of a hat, under their white chins. It is almost as if they were wearing black helmets. They grow to 27 inches and their weight is about 10 lbs. The chinstrap penguin eats mostly krill and fish, while they have to be careful of the leopard seals, who prey on them. Their life span is about 15 to 20 years. Chinstrap population has increased in the past century and has replaced the Adelie penguins as the locally dominant penguin species. This could be due to the warming of the Antarctica Peninsula region in the past century and a reduction in sea-ice cover-a condition that favors Chinstraps over Adelies. They build circular nests from stones on land, lay around two eggs, which are incubated by both males and females, for shifts of five to ten days. Chicks hatch after about 35 days and stay in the nest for about 20 to 30 days. At around 50-60 days, they molt, gain their adult plumage and go to sea.

The orange-beaked Gentoo is often seen around the Antarctic Peninsula. They are among the least aggressive of the penguins and not nearly as noisy as the Chinstraps or the Adelies. Unusually for penguins Gentoo chicks return to the nesting colony to be fed by their parents for about 3 weeks after fledging. Their body size is about 18 inches, and weight 13 lbs.

Because penguins are respected (and loved), they are not threatened by visitors.  Squatting on the ground is often a signal to the curious penguin to waddle over for a closer inspection of the strangers at hand. They can come up to you, sit on your boots, chew on your shoe laces, but you are not permitted to pet or touch them. On their turf, they always have the right of way, and a visitor might have to veer from the path itself because some penguins have decided to take a nap on it, or shoot the breeze with another penguin.

Penguins will commonly point their heads skyward and trumpet a call that is thought to be a territorial proclamation. It seems to be contagious, because once one bird begins this ecstatic display, someone in the neighborhood will soon copy it, and the noise will spread through the colony. 

Cappadocia, Turkey - The Land of “The Fairy Chimneys”

Cappadocia is a huge plateau in Central Turkey dominated by an extinct volcano, Mount Erciyes. It covers a relatively small area, about 116 miles.  It is known as the majestic jewel of central Anatolia, a landscape of spectacularly eroded tufa (hardened volcanic ash), an area of outstanding geology with caves, fairy chimneys and spectacular panoramic landscapes. Its landscape is the result of erosion by water, wind, and changes in temperature.  May to September is the ideal period for visitors. Frequent eruptions over millions of years covered large parts of the plateau with tufa. Over time, the tufa was worn away, thus creating distinctive formations, which included the capped-cone “fairy chimneys.”

 

These unusual formations  -“the fairy chimneys” – were identified by the early inhabitants through their belief that they were the chimneys of fairies, who lived under the ground. Some of these formations reach the height of 130 feet.

Over the years people have carved dwellings into the rocks. The Hittites are believed to have begun an underground city about 2,000 B.C. As many as 20,000 people could live here. During Christian times, churches and monasteries  with exquisite frescoes were carved into  the rock; proof that the Christian faith was established here by the 4^th century A.D. Thousands of people were sheltered in underground cities during the 7^th century Arab invasions

 

In the ancient Persian language, Cappadocia meant “the land of beautiful horses.” In Roman times, brood mares from Cappadocia were highly prized and a special tax was imposed on their sale.

A 45-minute hot air balloon ride, drifting over the eroded landscape, adds a touch of peace and quiet to the visitor, as well as amazing aerial shots. Each basket holds about 20 people, and an early morning cruise in the air, with forty other balloons simultaneously keeping company, is a high-light of the area. The balloons come close enough to “kiss each other,” depending on the capability of the pilot.

 

A treat, worth the time and effort, is a few nights stay in one of the five-star cave hotels. Carved out of the cliffs, the choicest would be close to the center of the village with great views of the fairy chimneys. Rooms have high ceilings, stone walls, elegant arches and kilims adding a touch of color.

For anyone with artistic or photographic preferences, I would heartily recommend a visit here.

Petra, Jordan – “The Rose-Red City”

Known as “The Rose-Red City half as Old As Time.” It is sometimes considered the Eighth Wonder of the World.  Petra is by far one of the most spectacular sites in the Middle East. Archaeologists date its existence to prehistoric times. Only a few local Bedouins and Arab tradesmen knew it until 1812 when a young Swiss explorer rediscovered it.

Mountains with passages and gorges surround it. The Nabateans, who dominated the lands of Jordan during the pre-Roman times, constructed Petra. They half-built and half-carved into solid rock and created a land of dusty pink temples, tombs and elaborate buildings.

Originally, it was a fortress city, which became a wealthy commercial crossroads between Rome, Greece, Assyria, Egypt and Arabia. Much later it was incorporated into the Roman Empire.

Approach can be either by foot, horseback, donkey or camel and/or horse-drawn carriage to the SIQ, a cleft in the rock that narrows to less than 16 feet wide. After winding around one mile, the Siq suddenly opens upon the most impressive of all Petra’s monuments, the Treasury (or Al-Khazneh), carved in the early first century as the tomb of an important Nabataean king.

Carved out of solid rock into the mountain with a dusty pink rock-face, it is awe-inspiring and a most elegant remains of antiquity.

“Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade” featured Harrison Ford on horseback riding through the Siq and coming onto the area in front of the Treasury in 1989.

From the Siq, you will be walking along the pathway gasping over the beauty of multi-colored pink and striated shades on rock formations, and elaborate rock-cut tombs above in the higher levels with intricate carvings intact. All these have survived the ravages of time, earthquakes, and other weather conditions. Of note, one must see the High Place of Sacrifice and the large Roman theater, which could accommodate at least 3,000 people. A walking tour of the area would afford the intrepid traveler more of a photo op than carriage or horse. Comfortable shoes are a necessity.

After soaking in the beauty of the area, the building in the rock itself, and the over-whelming presence of antiquity, I would heartily recommend Petra as a place to visit for several days.